Our wonderful friend Jo left us to return to London after a lovely few weeks together, and we went on to Kolkata. We’ve not been here long but already it’s my favourite city in India. It’s dirty, noisy and poverty striken – it’s India – but it is also quite charming with friendly, polite people, a working metro system, fantastic crumbling colonial buildings, broader streets with pavements (mostly) and delicious clean restaurants. People here originate from all over Asia and the city is buzzing with possibilities. There is art and music on the metro, the Ambassador taxis are yellow, it is incredibly hot and sticky, bookshops and snackbars are everywhere and four floors up in a conrete building we still have a gecko in our room. Just hope the poor thing doesn’t starve to death.