Our plane landed as the sun set over the Himalayas and by the time we disembarked the mountains had disappeared into the nighttime black, so I all I saw were glimpses of rock and snow emerging through the clouds like humpback whales breaking the waves. But soon we'll be in those mountains – can't wait!

It's wedding season in Kathmandu and the evening streets are full of celebratory trains, each headed by blasts from a brass band, followed by dancing women in elaborate silks and sequins. Then comes the car with the couple inside – usually an ancient battered tin with the hapless two squeezed inside and sweating in their finery as the procession drifts along at marching/dancing pace.

Off to ICIMOD next to meet scientists from the eight countries of the Hindu-Kush who are working together (in peace, I suppose) to develop sustainable solutions to the region's climate challenges.